Saturday, April 20, 2013

Polish like a pro

As with every perfect finish, what really matters are the quality of the tools and techniques you use to get there. I've decided to depart briefly from my normal home project blogs and teach you the right way to polish your toe nails. Is there a right way and a wrong way? Well, yes and no. Yes if you want them to look professionally done and for the color to last without chipping. No if you could care less how you waste your time as long as there's color on those toe nails. So it's totally up to individual choice. I've spend more than 20 years of my life as a cosmetologist and nail technician. Who better to learn the tricks of the trade from?! So here is what you will need:
From left to right is top quality base and top coat, reusable medium grit nail file, stainless steel combo cuticle pusher/scraper, pure acetone, full jaw nippers, orange wood stick, soft foam acrylic nail buffer and, optionally, a speed dry product. Now to explain these items. I've used Seche Vite base and top coat for the entire 23 years I've been in the industry. Why? It performs. You will want sturdy tools that will last, are sharp and do the job they are supposed to do without a battle. Pure acetone is very inexpensive, has multiple uses and just works quicker and better than regular polish remover. If you are going to put a solvent on your body anywhere, why not have it work faster so it's on there for a shorter amount of time? I love Orly Spritz Dry because it really does speed drying, it moisturizes your skin and smells so good. As far as polish goes, it's pretty much your choice. Whatever you love works unless it's a really really cheap stuff. My three top brands are OPI, China Glaze and Orly, in that order, but I have other brands in my stash (bucket lol). The one brand I don't ever use or buy is Essie. It's because of the shape of the bottle and the length of the brush and no other reason. It's impossible to use even half the bottle before it's useless. The same goes for Nicole by OPI. On to the process.
The first thing I usually do before polishing is a pedicure because I have the worlds worst callouses and they need constant attention. At this point, I will also take a moment to apologize for my ugly old feet. They are just that: ugly and old. I have abused them for nearly half a century and they are not taking it well. Most feet don't. I don't buy commercial soaks because I've been down that road and just couldn't get the same benefits as with home made soaks. Being in a for profit business and self-employed, it mattered what I spent on supplies and whether they worked well or just meh. This is my simple soak recipe: In a large pan I reserve only for feet, I add 1/2 cup of borax, 1/2 cup finely ground oatmeal (coffee grinder works great!) and a quick squirt of Castille liquid soap in lavender to rather hot water. I usually soak for 15 to 20 minutes then go to work grating and filing off the icky stuff. I won't bore you with the details other than to say, once I'm finished, I slather on an inexpensive cuticle remover I get at +Sally Beauty Supply  and let it set for a few minutes. I use my ss pusher to gently slide back the cuticle and the scraper side for stubborn dead skin that sticks to the nail plate. After I finish all 9 toes (yep, missing one), I use my nippers to carefully cut away any dead skin that is left. Never nip any life tissue! I'm sure I don't need to tell you that as you will figure it out if you do. Messy. I dry off my feet and apply a good lotion like +Gold Bond. After wiping the excess lotion off my toe nails, I use the same buffer I have for smoothing my acrylic nails to lightly smooth the nails. Don't go crazy with this because you don't want to shine them, you just want to remove the high ridges and take down the natural shine a little. Your nails should be pretty dry now so it's safe to clip and file them. It doesn't work well on soggy nails. Remember to file square and only smooth sharp corners. It makes for a stronger nail and prevents ingrown toenails. Now you can dampen a cotton pad with pure acetone and wipe each nail to remove any dust and oily residue because you are ready for the main event. Polish!
Start with a single, smooth coat of +seche vite clear base. Even though it's clear, you still want to keep it off the skin the same as you would with color and your top coat. The logic holds true that, not only does it get dry, white and crispy when it's left on the skin but it prevents a good seal between your nail, base, color and top coat. This is where the orange wood cuticle stick comes in handy. Pour a little acetone in the bottle's cap, dip the stick in and just wipe away any polish from the skin. It works like a wick to give you a clean application. Once you've base coated all 10 nails (9 in my case), apply your color in a smooth, fairly thin coat. Here's a trick: don't dip your brush wand back into the bottle all the way. You want a ball of polish on the end. The idea is to get a smooth finish while getting complete nail coverage. Your first coat should achieve this. You can wiggle the brush up to the cuticle nice and close, don't forget those corners (if you have them). Don't fret over the first coat much, that's what the second one is for. Start applying your second coat on the first nail you polished without waiting in between for setting up. You want this coat to be thicker and you want enough polish on the brush so that the brush doesn't come in contact with the previous coat. That's what causes brush marks, pulls and uneven finishes. Go straight to your top coat and apply a thick coat on each nail. You don't want it flooding the cuticle but you do want it close enough to seal the color in. Run the top coat across the free edge of the nail first, then place a healthy dab in the center of the nail, gliding it toward the edge. With your big toe, one dip isn't going to do it so place the center line, redip for each side working quickly before it sets up. After the last nail is top coated, spritz with speed dry and relax. This is your excuse to do nothing for an hour. Well, not nothing. There's always Pinterest and Facebook to catch up on. Your polish will last until you are ready for a new color. Not cracks, chips or wear.

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